Italian Grilling, Try It!

Taken as a whole, Central Italian grilling is remarkably simple if compared with other traditions, such as the American-style barbecue. The fire is either charcoal or wood burned down to coals (oak is considered best, though the choice is to a certain degree dictated by what's available; olive wood is also used, and some cooks also add herbs to the coals as the meat cooks, especially sage or rosemary).

Marinades? They tend to be simple, if used at all -- olive oil, salt, pepper, garlic, rosemary, and perhaps sage. Also, occasionally, lemon juice. Because of this simplicity, the flavor has to come from the meat, which must therefore be top quality.

A couple of words on technique: Let your fire burn down to coals that have a little ash on them before you begin. The question of exactly how far to place the meat from the coals depends upon the size of the piece of meat and the temperature of the fire, and is therefore best answered by experience. I put my hand over the fire (just above the grill); if I can only hold it for two seconds, the flame is quite hot -- perfect for searing a steak, for example. 3-4 seconds is cooler, and suited for grilling meats that cook quickly. For meats that have longer cooking times (poultry, spare ribs, and such), I aim for coals that I can hold my hand over for 5 seconds. Keep in mind that you can vary the heat by raising or lowering the grill, and also that for some kinds of cooking you may want to build a two-tiered fire, with lots of coals in one section, that give a 2-second fire, and fewer coals in another, for a 4-second fire. This sort of fire is perfect for steak, for example -- the hot section for searing, and the cooler section for cooking the steak through.

If you are instead spit-roasting, you can build a nice bank of coals and set the spit in front of them, with a pan under it to catch the drippings, which will be perfect for basting. Regulate the intensity of the heat by moving the meat closer to or further from the coals; start by setting the spit where you can hold your hand for 5 seconds (for chicken, pork loin, or similar; larger cuts should start further from the heat than smaller ones lest their outsides dry out before their insides are cooked) and move it in closer to brown the meat once it's almost cooked. In any case, experience will guide your hand, and once you have the technique down -- the important thing to remember is not to rush things -- grilling is one of the most satisfying cooking methods there is.